Which lathe

Proper leveling is probably one of the most overlooked factors in setting up a lathe. It should be level along the length of the ways and across the ways at each end. Now, alternately place the level across the ways just in front of the headstock and at the opposite end, and adjust the screws until each end is dead level.

It is best if you do not have to move the lathe after leveling. When buying a lathe, you also need to budget for tool sharpening systems and tools — which tools depends on your woodturning goals. Mini lathe users can get by with cheaper miniature tools. I prefer to buy turning tools ad hoc, rather than in sets, which can include tools you will never use or workhorse tools in the wrong size.

Avoid bargain basement carbon steel sets and, unless your turning ambitions are very modest, avoid carbide tools. I suggest buying tools made from high-speed steel, or from powdered metal, which offers even more edge holding time between sharpening. Yes, you will have to sharpen your tools, using a bench grinder to grind them to the proper shape. They seldom come that way.

Buy as good a grinder as you can afford, such as a slow-speed grinder that comes with aluminum oxide wheels. A buffer is great for honing spindle tools after grinding. If you wear prescription glasses, your optometrist can make you a pair that meet the Z An even better option is to wear a face shield that meets the Z Hearing protection during most turning is wise. Roughing out work, as you start your project and quickly remove material from your eventual bowl or a spindle, can emit sound over 80 decibels as the tool is alternately cutting wood and air.

Dust protection is most problematic around lathes, so anything that can be done to suck up dust before it gets into your lungs is good. Back up this dust collection option by wearing an automotive type dust mask or, even better, a respirator. Faceplate work never needs to exceed 1, rpm, with to rpm for initial roughing. All this is to say that the lathe is just the tip of the iceberg. The best of lathes is useless without equally good tools.

Finally, the number of parts to be machined and the required accuracy are prime factors for specifying the capability and the quality of the machine. Machines for high production call for high-speed X and Y axes, with rapid-travel rates to match. Machines for close-tolerance work are designed to control thermal drift in ballscrews and key components.

The machine structure may also be designed to minimize thermal growth. Turning hardened materials to grinding-like accuracies takes the right combination of part, machine and process parameters. UNCC researchers introduce modulation into the tool path. Chip breaking was the goal, but higher metal removal rate is an intriguing secondary effect. Turning Machines Machines. Barry Rogers President, Alpha Strategies. Find a Manufacturing Supplier or Service. Joined Nov 14, Messages 1, Most of the mini-lathes are made by Sieg who then sells them to various distributors like Harbor Frieght, Grizzly, Little Machine Shop etc.

There can be minor differences based on the options each seller chooses and what they include. Also differences in quality control standards. Terry has a good point on the size. When you see 7x10" that isn't the size of the part than can be worked on, it its the size of the work space. You have to subtract the space taken up by tooling. A chuck will extend a couple of inches beyond the nominal diameter so a 7x lathe can only use a 4" or maybe 5" chuck.

A 10" bed length will quickly fill up, say you want to drill a piece of work, the 3 jaw chuck probably takes up 2", the drill chuck in the tail stock another 2 or 3" and the drill bit probably 3" so by the time you go to work, you may only have around 2" available for the piece you are working on.

You really want to figure out the size of things you are going to make though because all of the mini-lathes are limited in size. A 7x10" might be fine for you, but even a 9x19" is still fairly compact, but at around lbs not too portable. I've got a Sherline which I really like, but it is a very small lathe 3. Very quiet, lightweight 35 lbs and Sherline has great support, both service and available accessories.

I got my lathe for model making so the size is fine for my use, but I quickly bump into the upper size limits when I look at using it for something for the "full size" world.

It works great for things up to 1" diameter, 2" diameter is about the largest I can comfortably work on. The 17" bed provides plenty of room lengthwise. TerryH said:. HF 10" is tiny. Even if you don't turn something longer, the lack of room between the chuck and the tail stock will be a pain when drilling or just generally working on anything. Much better off with a 12" if you can. I opted for the 7x12 Grizzly for a little more money. I'm quite pleased with it. The belt drive lathes are definitely quieter.

It does a good job I'm now looking for something newer. I've thought about buying an older American Lathe to restore. However, I'm not sure if I want to get into a project like that. I use my lathe for building model steam engines and various small projects, 11" x 24" would be ok.

Thanks Stephen. DavHJ Member. Joined Jan 13, Messages 16 Reaction score This is the lathe I baught about 15 years ago. It's gone up in price since I baught mine.

I've had good luck with it so far I've done everything from small parts for Model Engeneering projects to big diameter parts with great accuracy. Joined Dec 2, Messages 1, Reaction score Unfortunately, I could not fit it in so went a bit smaller! Tciplumber Member.

Joined Jan 2, Messages 11 Reaction score I don't know if any are "better" than the others. The quality seems to be pretty good on them nowadays. I think it comes down to tooling included and features for the price.